Where are all the women? I realize India has a greater percentage of men than women, but even with a skewed ratio you’d think you’d run across some women every once in awhile. Yes, every once in awhile we did but it’s easy to feel outnumbered in certain areas of India, like Amritsar. Thus, I’ve henceforth dubbed it Manritsar.
I’m not sure when I became aware of the Golden Temple (proper name: Harmandir Sahib), the holiest gurdwara in the Sikh religion. Maybe it was the movie Bride and Prejudice or some National Geographic documentary, either way I was obsessed with seeing it one day. When Michelle and I began our India planning in November I kept mentioning it among my top three MUST SEE–Taj Mahal, Holi, Golden temple. She’d never heard of it before and luckily added it to the list. Thus, when I was following our bodyguard/driver to the temple from the Jallianwala Garden, I was filled with nervous excitement.
We put our shoes in the storage area, our driver gave us holy water to drink (I admit I promptly threw it on the floor), we walked through the foot baths and into one of the most breathtaking views I’d seen in India. As you walk out the east gate there is a balcony where you can get a higher view of the temple, which stands in the middle of a small lake. As you descend the series of steps onto the marble pathway surrounding the temple you see groups of pilgrims (men) both young and old bathing themselves in the holy water.
We made sure our veils were on properly and began wandering around observing people in their spiritual rites. And while there is a constant buzz among the worshipers: those participating in langar, prayer or bathing themselves, everyone speaks with a sense of reverence.
During our wanderings we actually even met a woman who was visiting from London with her husband for the SEVENTH time. We chatted about their beliefs, the importance of the Golden Temple within the religion, the strength religion gave to their marriage and even participated in prayer with her. I was impressed to learn that Sikh Gurus have advocated equal rights for women since the 15th century and later read a quote by Guru Nanuk stating, “”From woman, man is born; within woman, man is conceived; to woman he is engaged and married. Woman becomes his friend; through woman, the future generations come. When his woman dies, he seeks another woman; to woman he is bound. So why call her bad? when she gives rise to nobility.” Props from within a cast system society! I also discovered that women could bath in a covered section of the lake if they desire–more props. After taking some photos we parted ways with a few hugs and, on the husbands end, a jab to go find some honorable men.
As I returned to the eastern gate and ascended the stairs to find our driver (we were 30 minutes longer than we’d told him) I was filled with a sense of gratitude. Gratitude for the opportunity to see something I’d always wanted, gratitude for kind and open people, and gratitude for the reminder that this world–regardless of religion–is filled with good people. Truth is truth, no matter whether it’s worshiped and acknowledged through a turban or some funky jammies. I’m honored that in such a spiritual place to so many people in the world, I was able to feel that principle.
Melinda Skea got a taste for adventure as her family moved from America’s West to its hospitable south and eventually settled in its fast-paced New England corner. She studied International Relations and Spanish at Brigham Young University and subsequently embarked on a round-the-world trip which included Asia, Oceania and Europe. She has since found a home base in Washington D.C. where she works as an editor for a non-profit publication, but still finds time to put a few stamps in her passport each year.
Melinda is also the founder of D.C.-based Fashion Freecycle, which strives to limit the growing problem of clothing pollution by making “One [wo]man’s trash another [wo]man’s treasure”. These quarterly events encourage women to donate items and swap them for ones they find useful. Also an avid film lover, in 2008 Melinda began a monthly Foreign Film Night, which strives to create an atmosphere of openness, respect and learning as participants dine on the country-of-choice local cuisine and enjoy cinema outside of the usual Blockbuster.
