Barcelona: Center of the Fresh Food Revolution With Restaurants to Prove It

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If you go to Barcelona’s tiny port neighborhood of Barceloneta, you can’t help but find some of the freshest fish anywhere. Bordered by a beach and a marina, this once dingy burg attracts the glamarati as well as sun-soaked local families taking a break. The real reason, we learn is the food.

While there are prefab frozen-seafood paella joins on the waterfront, instead, go to one of the eight restaurants that form the Barceloneta Cuina, an association of restaurateurs and chefs who have vowed to defend fresh cuisine. They only use seafood caught by local fisherman and fresh organic ingredients.

Restaurant Can Sole, is one of the oldest neighborhood establishments, has reintroduced zarzuela, traditionally prepared for bourgeois theatergoers after the opera. Served in a cast-iron skillet, the dish is brimming with fresh gambas (shrimp), mussels, squid and monkfish, bathed in a fragrant, garlicky broth. Bring on the garlic I say.

The movement here has vowed to reinvigorate traditions. At Kaiku, which sits on the tip of the peninsular jutting out to the sea, chef Hug Pla Cortes uses local seafood he personally selects from the commercial fish market across the street to create dishes like zamburina, baby scallops sprinkled with sea salt and drizzled with Cortes’ own patent-pending elixir of ginger, lime, olive oil and black pepper.

Repurposed/printed from a Hemispheres article June 2011.

 

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