The Kalahari Desert is not a desert in the strictest sense. Its annual rainfall is too high (although it is still very low), the wildlife is too diverse, and the plant life too abundant (even if it is scrub). To be more technically correct, the Kalahari is a sand basin; the largest sand basin in the world. Semantics aside, it is one of the most rugged tourist areas in Southern Africa and camping opportunities, while numerous, are rough.
Most of the Kalahari is found in Botswana, but it also covers stretches of Namibia and South Africa. It contains a number of game parks, the biggest of which is the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, which also happens to be the second biggest game reserve in the world. The reserve is located in the centre of Botswana and is divided into two distinct regions: the wooded south with mophane forests and the drier north, which has more wildlife. The best time to visit the Central Kalahari Game Reserve is between December and April, when animals converge on water sources in the pans and valleys.
Camping sites are undeveloped without even the modest comfort of a latrine. Campers have to dig their own latrines and are required to leave no trace behind when they leave. The roads are impossible for anything other 4×4 vehicles and visitors are strongly encouraged to travel in convoys of at least two 4×4 vehicles for safety’s sake. Campers should be entirely self-contained as there are no places to stock up on fuel, food or water in the reserve.
The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park consists of what used to be South Africa’s Kalahari Gemsbok National Park and Botswana’s Gemsbok National Park and covers an impressive 3.6 million ha. It’s known for its antelope (hence the presence of Gemsbok in the old names) and bird life. The park can be accessed from South Africa, Botswana and Namibia and contains three traditional rest camps that have basic shopping and fuel facilities, and three wilderness camps, which are less luxurious. Camping facilities are also available.
4×4 vehicles are not required (unless you’re on the Botswanan side, and then you’ll need them to get to the camps) but are recommended. When travelling between camps, guests must ensure that they arrive at their destination before nightfall as no travelling is allowed after the dark.
The Khutse Game Reserve contains an extensive mineralised pan system that supports the surrounding wildlife. Once again, camping facilities are basic. Pit latrines are already in place, but those are the only amenities you’ll get. If you don’t mind company, you might want to stay in the campsites between Khutse I and Khutse II pans. For a more isolated experience, you should try the sites at Moreswe Pan. Visitors need to be completely self-contained.
If you’re going to the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park you need to have a 4×4 vehicle and travel in convoys of no less than two vehicles. Njuca (Njugha) Hills has two camping sites which are undeveloped but have two pit latrines. It is the best site at which to watch the annual migration of zebra and wildebeest at the start of the rainy season. Kumaga is a public camping ground and, as such, is slightly more comfortable, with an ablution block and water standpipe provided. Visitors to both sites need to be self-contained.
At last we have a luxury resort in the form of the privately owned game reserve, Tswalu Kalahari. It is owned by the Oppenheimer family, who consider conservation (and comfort) a priority. The park only allows up to 30 guests at a time, and has two accommodation options: Motse and Tarkuni.
Motse is the main property and is located at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. It consists of eight legae (little house), which are decorated in the style of “safari chic”. Suites have en-suite bathrooms and outdoor showers, as well as private sun decks. The main house has an infinity pool, spa and library. Tarkuni is actually the Oppenheimer’s personal home at Tswalu, but they have opened it up to accommodate a maximum of ten guests in five luxurious suites. All of which makes a mockery out of digging your own latrine, doesn’t it?
Jade Scully is a copywriter excited about writing copy and stories, blogging about the world and editing. She currently and regularly publishes her stories on a number of blogs. Jade loves animals and hopes to begin writing copy for the animal rescue charity TEARS as her contribution to the cause.
