An enchanting and, as legend has it, enchanted island in the Visayan region of the Philippine archipelago, Siquijor has a charm all its own. From pristine white-sand beaches to centuries-old relics, this island is a must-see for the intrepid and adventurous traveler.
Its moniker came from the observation of early Spanish explorers that the island at night had an eerie and surreal glow; hence, they called it the ‘Island of Fire’. There was a simple explanation to this otherwise mysterious phenomenon – the glow came from the swarms of fireflies that hovered around the trees along Siquijor’s shoreline.
Scuba diving and snorkeling along the vast coral reefs surrounding the island are a popular activity. Underwater vistas teeming with colorful varieties of fish and submarine gardens are found in Siquijor’s Marine Preserve. Over a hundred kilometers of coastline yield over a dozen fine beaches, all white-sand.
Salagdoong is a twin beach and cove separated by a rocky outcropping from where one may dive 30 feet into the clear turquoise waters below. Just down the road from here, we discovered a deserted beach in the town of Maria where we frolicked in the sand and surf and then had a picnic in the shade of the massive rocks on the shore. Some nice beach resorts around the island are Islander Paradise, Kiwi, Casa de la Playa, Royal Cliff, Danish Lagoon and Coco Grove.
The island’s hilly interior with its awesome rock formations and cave systems is great for caving and spelunking. Cantabon Cave has mini-waterfalls and pools in its stalactite/stalagmite-filled cavern. Other caves suitable for exploration are Cambasia, Tagmanocan, Canghunog-hunog and Boljo.
The hills of Siquijor are also known for its annual gathering of herbalists and healers who use nature’s pharmacopeia. This event, perceived by some as a sort of coven reunion, has given the island a bit of unwarranted notoriety that has resulted in its other nickname – ‘Voodoo Isle’. This has added to the mystique and charm of Siquijor.
Kambuhagay Falls is, quite literally, a sight for sore travel-weary eyes. One hikes down a steep winding path from the road and is rewarded with a vision of tropical nirvana – multi-tiered waterfalls cascading down into sparkling emerald pools of varying sizes. Go on a weekday because this gem of a spot gets way too crowded on weekends.
History buffs will appreciate the St. Isidore Labrador church and convent in the town of Lazi. Built in colonial times, these two edifices stand facing each other in a quiet plaza amidst stately acacia trees. The convent was once the biggest in all of Asia.
Other places of interest on the island include the 400-year-old immense balete tree near Lazi, the Bandilaan Butterfly Park, Bulalakaw and Salagdoong Forests, Tupalos Tree House and Fish Sanctuary and the Cang-Isok house, a local treasure, as it is made from purely indigenous native materials and has withstood storms and the ravages of nature for over a century.
A great way to see portions of the island is by renting a small motorbike or scooter. We explored many cool off-the-beaten-path spots this way while staying at Coco Grove on the west side of the island. Incidentally, while staying here, I got the best massage I’ve ever had.
It was from an elder lady with strong hands who used a salve she concocted herself made from organic coconut oil and dozens of herbs, roots and bark she had collected from the forests in the interior – turns out she was one of the “healers from the hills”.
Judy Razon worked in the Philippines as a television and video events writer and director for several national television shows, including lifestyle, real estate, men’s lifestyle, cooking, sports and touring events.
Currently based in the U.S., she is also a published travel photographer for SE Asian English-language glossy magazine publications and has a passion for music, film and photography.
