Jardin Secret: Provence Dining Under Cotignac’s Trees

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Meet Jardin Secret, a gem tucked away on a side street in the antiquated village of Cotignac in Provence.

You may be thinking: What makes this place so special?

Located in the heart of the village of Cotignac, which I’d argue is one of the most charming in the Haut-Var region of Provence, Le Jardin Secret is about an hour’s drive from the cities of Aix-en-Provence and Marseille, and 45 minutes from the Gorges du Verdon. It’s a secret garden hideaway surrounded by flowers and herbs, where dishes will take you away.

Welcome to Jardin Secret

Behind the centuries-old stones of a building nestled among vineyards and olive trees, the restaurant advocates naturalness and a return to basics. Chef Benoit Witz, who I had the chance to meet in the kitchen briefly, creates instinctive cuisine, driven by seasonal produce. Each day, a unique three-or four-course menu celebrates Provence in its most authentic form. That translates to this: You never know what what’s going to be on offer, but I can assure you, the dishes won’t disappoint. 

Originally from a small village between the Vosges Mountains and Germany, Benoit developed his taste for cooking on his family farm. He was trained in the greatest French restaurants, with Paul Bocuse, under Patrick Lenôtre at Pré Catelan in Paris and Alain Ducasse at Louis XV in Monaco. The owners of Lou Calen, the hotel connected to the restaurant, loved his vision of authentic Provençal cuisine and Jardin Secret was born or perhaps you can say reborn.  

Did I mention that they have great cocktails and mocktails? And bread. Europe is the one place I indulge in bread basket after bread basket and don’t put on the weight or feel bloated. It’s their commitment to healthy organic farming without infusing all the harmful chemicals that throw your system out of synch.

Not long after we arrived, the 12:30 pm church bells went off in the distance, a reminder of the antiquity of the place and the fact that it was Sunday. Accompaniments come to the table first.

Yeah, I brought our book with us.

The outdoor patio is absolutely charming and at times, you feel as if you’re sitting amongst a mini jungle. The natural environs are inspiring and welcoming.

I started with a delicious Viognier because it was a great pairing for the dishes we were about to order. Later, they encouraged us to try their Sancerre les Calcaires (2022) and both were exquisite. Other wines worth a call out include the Mirabeau Pure Rose and a local Cotignac wine called Clos de ‘Ours (Milia 2023). They were so perfect for the warm Autumn day.

 

We started with Grilled Squid with eggplant and basil over veggies. It was so fresh and light, a perfect way to start the luncheon.

Above and below, the Grilled Squid at Jardin Secret in Cotignac

Above and below, the Grilled Squid at Jardin Secret in Cotignac

This fascinating appetizer (below) is called a Boa Bun, which is known for its soft texture. The term is a repetition of the Chinese word for bun, “bao,” which means “to wrap”. Inside this one was squid and the reduction sauce includes white wine, tomato, onions, garlic, carrots, celery and pistou, which is the Provençe equivalent of Pesto. Pistou is a Provençal sauce made from basil, garlic, and olive oilsimilar to Italian pesto but typically doesn’t include nuts or cheese. The name comes from the Provençal word for “to pound” or “crush,”—think of the the traditional ways we used to crush or grind using a mortar and pestle.

A Bao with Squid at Jardin Secret in Cotignac

A Bao with Squid at Jardin Secret in Cotignac

Then out came the mains, which were as delicious as they were beautifully presented. The chicken dish was served with foie gras and accompanied with carrots, mushrooms, green beans, potatoes, onions and basil of course. I can never get enough of Basil and we grow large pots of it in our garden at home.

Next up on their inviting plates was the Royal Shrimp with Quails Eggs and Spinach. The sauce is made with cream, vinaigrette, and a local spice they refer to as Espelette, which is a variety of Capsicum annuum that is cultivated in the French commune of Espelette, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, the northern part of Basque country. Just look at this presentation – it was utterly divine.

Then there’s dessert. How about this Pastry Dough concoction with homemade vanilla ice cream and apples? It was perfect for the Fall Season.

One of the things I had forgotten was how diverse the French cheese board offerings are compared to the states. When I lived in Europe, it was common to end a meal with cheese and here, at Jardin Secret, we did as well. We paired it with KIR, which the waiter suggested. It’s a renowned French cocktail made with white wine and crème de cassis, a sweet blackcurrant liqueur. It is traditionally served as an apéritif. Something known as Kir Royale is a variation, made with the same ingredients but uses sparkling wine rather than white wine.

Below, our KIR choices. We went with Pêche (peach) and Mûre (blackberry), both wonderful choices with the cheese board.

Below, you’ll get a sense of their kitchen.

 

The outside area is really the true gem of the place (in addition to the food of course). You feel as if you’re sitting amongst a sustainable garden and way of life. In other words, it isn’t just for show.

 

Afterwards at Lou Calen (the hotel connected to Jardin Secret), they offer concerts and other entertainment. We were fortunate to be there during a weekend during a classical concert with four musicians. Zofia Neugebauer joined us on flute, Mihaly Racz on trumpet, Marcell Szabo on piano and Mattias Well on violin. Sometimes the concerts are held outside and other times inside the La Farandole. Below is the concert we experienced, held inside with windows facing nature and an eclectic, creative and colorful ceiling. Bravo!

The performance was called SCHUBERT IN MOSAICS and it was so fitting given the musical selections and the ceiling design. The artists we heard from were winners of the Fanny Mendessohn Awards, an organization that honors young classical musicians. It’s a terrific program and we were grateful to be able to be there for a Fall event.

We absolutely loved this experience, so much so that I’ve listed it in Renee’s Top Pics. If you make it to Provence in the  Summer or Fall, be sure to check out their schedule and don’t forget to book a luncheon at Jardin Secret. Details below.

DETAILS:

Jardin Secret
13 Rue de l’Araignée
83570 Cotignac
00 33 494 78 30 51
Be sure to check out our France section for more articles on France and French culture as well as our Food/Wine section, which includes Restaurant Reviews.
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