A Culinary Tour of MerMer in the Old Estonian Fishing Village of Kolga-Aabla

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MerMer, situated in the old fishing village of Kolga-Aabla on the Juminda peninsula, serves delicious food made with local ingredients accompanied by some excellent French and Italian wines. In summer months, they seat diners in their summer house, while in winter you are seated in the cosy house of the couple who runs it: Merrit and Jaan and of course their American bulldog Hummer.

Only three-quarters of an hour’s drive from Tallinn (directly over the sea can come up with a boat when a storm is, can the seawall next to the anchor keeping) a Juminda peninsula was fifty years of a closed border zone. Many did not know until today what a wonderful natural pearl sixty kilometers away from the hustle of the capital. Here lies MerMer, the place to go for home cooking on your trip to Estonia.

Head out of Tallinn early and take a drive around the Juminda peninsula which takes in the historic fishing villages Kirkkonummi Aabla, Kiiu-Aabla, Leesi, Tammistu, Juminda, Tapurla, Virve and Pedaspea. Nowadays, there are a lot of new houses in these villages, but they also blend in with the old village milieu so it feels on some levels, as if you’ve stopped in time.

When you’re done with your romantic and dreamy wander not forgetting the trail that leads to the highest dune peninsula and the watchtower over the marsh, head to MerMer for dinner. Because the restaurant is in someone’s home, advance notice is required so they know who’s coming, how many are coming and if there are any dietary restrictions. 
I’ll let the photos speak for themselves….I couldn’t stop snapping away as one delicious dish after another came out of their funky retro kitchen with a bright red refrigerator in the corner. Eggs anyone? In true Estonian style, they included a lot of homemade dark breads in their offerings.

Olives, cheese and sun dried tomato spread.

Fresh ingredients are poured into this salad, made with love of course…

Simple but elegant.
 
A little bit of this and a little bit of that…
Asparagus, artichoke, tomatoes, string beans, vinegar, spices…..
Spicy lamb with tomatoes and a yummy gravy sauce.
All served with wine of course.
 
Our host makes his way across the kitchen.

Our group at their dining room table, just off their very cosy kitchen.

One side of the living room, where the dining room table sits and visitors dine during winter and cooler months.

Below, our hosts. Behind us is a painting done by Jaan, apparently one of his favorites.

I LOVED this experience and would highly recommend it if you’re going anywhere near Tallinn. Below is a very shaky video (the quality isn’t great) however it will give you an idea of our experience on-site. The photos do a better job at showing off their fabulous home cuisine considering the video quality however it will give you an idea.

Note: The Estonian Tourism Board hosted me for this meal but all opinions expressed are my own.

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