3 Restaurant Gems in Dublin’s City Center

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Dublin has become a surprising favorite of mine having visited twice in just under a year. Not only are the Irish warm and welcoming but they have a hunger and passion for the good things in life, whether that be a damn good pint of Guinness, dancing, fiddling, singing or storytelling. While Ireland may not be known as a global hub for food, Dublin’s restaurant scene continuously surprises me with one gem after another, its chefs taking the city’s culinary standards to a whole new level.

Last year, I wrote about Hugos, the coolest, hippest pubs in Dublin, great food in Dublin which includes restaurants: Bleu, Fallon & Bryne, Balzac Brasserie, Saba, Fire, Pichet, Chez Max, Rustic Stone, Winding Stairs (charming), Polish Bakery, Fafies Creperie, Johnnie Foxes, Cafe en Seine, Sam Sara and also, here’s another post on great food in Dublin.

This year, I extended my reach to three restaurants not on my original list: Town Bar & Grill, The FitzWilliam Hotel’s Citron (which is also where I stayed) and La Maison, suggested by the Irish Tourism Board.

Town Bar & Grill on Kildaire Street:

For starters, I ended up at the Town Bar & Grill solo before I was due to join a group of friends at a late night dancing venue, one that apparently went into the wee hours of the morning, something I’m not accustomed to on a regular basis, particularly given how early San Francisco shuts down. When I walked in, it felt like it was one of those establishments where old media and politicians might hang out twenty years ago and because it has become habit, they still do.

I wasn’t far off I soon learned as I began chatting to the man next to me, who was also dining solo; turns out he is a famous artist/sculptor. His work is stunning btw…..did I say stunning? While we talked about the art scene, I learned that a piece from Bono’s childhood friend Guggi (born Derek Rowen) (who I literally met the night before in a pub) was hanging directly behind me. (post about an art preview way back in 2002). Fascinating and engaging, Guggi shared with me stories of his wife’s Dragon breeding business and showed me photos of “yes dragons” in a variety of colors. Crikey was all I was thinking as I sipped on my Guinness slowly. Was this for real? It absolutely was and is in fact.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

His artwork combined with one interesting story after another by my new pal, I also learned that a well renowned TV personality was sitting across from us, also dining solo. (not as uncommon in Ireland as it is in the states). Funnily enough, he was surprised I thought he looked like an artist since he felt he dressed low key, yet there’d be no chance in hell you’d find someone dressed in colored pants and a creative shirt that showed that he had fashion sense, in the states who wasn’t dabbling in some form of creative industry. And so while I sipped on my 2006 Amarone Allegrini Della Valpolicella Classico, I feasted on Irish history, Irish art, Irish personalities and the Town Bar & Grill’s menu.

I tried the prawn bruschetta con gamberetti (pan-fried prawns, white wine, chilli and garlic), followed by the Risotto Verde with Scallops, the spiced Quail Salad with bulgar wheat, and their yummy Gnocchi, served with chives, tomatoes, parmesan and basil oil. I also recommend the Coda di Rospo (monkfish, parma ham, wild mushrooms, smoked tomato fondue, and cauliflower puree) if you’re a fish lover.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For meat lovers, try the Loin of Veal, the confit of duck leg, served with plum chutney and a fondant potato or the Pancia Maiale-herb rolled belly of pork served with spiced red cabbage, puy lentils and apple compote jus.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tiramisu didn’t blow me away nor did the wine menu by the glass – it would have been a different story if I was more than one and could have ordered a bottle. For other reds, they did have a Lombeline Grenache Syrah from France, a Guido Gualandi Chianti from Tuscany and the Nero d’Avola Borghi from Sicily (a common choice on many menus, Europe and state-side). For desserts, I’d recommend the honeycomb parfait with mixed berry compote served in a filo pastry or the cheesecake with a rasberry compote. I was in fact craving dark chocolate on that particular evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There’s also a sampler if you can’t make up your mind, which is a great choice if you’re two or more.

Citron Restaurant with Chef Matthew Fuller: (photo at the very top left is a shot I took of him on my iPhone during dinner)

Citron’s design is apparently going to be remodeled shortly, but its current ambiance can best be characterized by muted zesty lime and lemons off set against the chalky white terrazzo, a woven white bar front and the dark timber floor with a ceiling hosting a collection of low flying ovoid forms, which gently glow. Since the restaurant overlooks the FitzWilliam Hotel lobby, the lighting can’t be controlled in its entirety. I felt a couple of pieces of artwork and swapping out the chairs for a choice more comfortable and ‘softer’ would warm the place up a bit.

That said, the staff was about as warm as it comes, including Chef Fuller who came out on more than one occasion to chat and tell me what I was eating, including the ingredients. And, the presentation was beautiful and creative. How’s this for starting things off? These charming deliciously flavored potato chips have been created in the shape of clothing on a line, which you top off with just a dash of garlic butter, which they serve in a miniature wicker basket.

I actually tweeted about this meal in real time as each course came out, starting with the Lobster Tortelloni, which included parmesan foam, leek puree and tomato consomme. The sauce was tossed in a shaker with tarragon, the leeks and the tarragon both an unusual but pleasant palette surprise.

The peppered cured tuna carpaccio was also full of surprises. He included a roasted pepper mango pistachio sauce in a walnut & shallot dressing.

What I didn’t try was the cured curried pork belly served with coconut froth and parmesan or the Caprice Salad since I was in the mood for something more daring that night. For mains, they served a chicken supreme with potato, leek, bacon and pea emulsion, an 8 ounce Sirloin Steak with watercress salad and portobello mushrooms and a Pan Seared Sea Bass with scallions for fish lovers.

I went for the Salmon au Poivre, served with duck egg creme brulee, wilted spinach and almond potato terrine (I added a little garlic which I asked for on the side), asparagus and chive jelly, followed by their “Study of Beef,” which combined oxtail croquette, char-grilled fillet, ossobuco veal jus, onion vaji and sweetbreads. The latter may not sound like it should really go with such a rich array of red meat, yet the texture was light, whipped with cream, milk, onion, cloves into a bread-like mousse.

I was so full after sampling so many dishes on their menu that I couldn’t bring myself to dive into a dessert regardless of how small.
The waitress talked me into it however and man, am I glad she did.

Their Strawberry and Basil soup, which could have also been served as a dessert, was a perfect ending to a perfect meal. The soup puree was served with basil jelly, basil foam (scrumptious) and a basil sorbet, all delicately displayed on top of the soup….the idea is to gently blend it in so your tastebuds would get a spontaneous treat.
Imagine something so rosy red that it doesn’t look like it shouldn’t be eaten, but rather worshipped and displayed on a blank white canvas somewhere.
Combine that with a number of unusual flavors that you can decide to have swimming on the top or meshed together with strawberries, strawberries and more strawberries………..all pureed together for a scrumptious taste that will knock your socks off.

Alas, a soup for dessert.

A strawberry soup for dessert.

I ended up bringing my dessert to my room since the restaurant was in the same hotel where I stayed, together with a couple of dark chocolates and a tea since it was so late by the time I got to the end. A fabulous end.

Monsieur Fuller, am sorry I couldn’t tell you in person just how yummy this last dish was that I nearly didn’t order. Let’s just say I went to bed happy. And, very very full.

While they didn’t have it available when I was there, on the a la carte menu is a Cured Fois Gras served with quince jelly, apricot chutney, cep emulsion and a toasted brioche. If this dish is done with as much care and creativity as his other choices, you can’t possibly leave without trying it if its available.

What I’d likely order next time if I return if its still a menu option is the chocolate and hazelnut mousse, served with orange sorbet, blood orange jelly and tangerine cake. Fuller seems to use jelly in a lot of dishes and he seems to know how to make its inclusion always “work.”

La Maison on Castle Market Street:

Since I wasn’t doing this review solo, I was able to sample more dishes and we opted for smaller and more rather than larger and more robust. A definite must are two salads on the menu: the Salad of Duck Confit, Foie Gras Terrine and French Beans and Lardons, and the Oven Cooked Scallops served in their shells with a Chorizo Salad. OMG (presentation and taste are to die for). What I had my eye on but didn’t try (a serious eye :-), was the Clobherhead Crab Cannelloni on a salad of Apple and Avocado Puree.

Another yummy must is the Steak Tartare, served with Quails Egg and homemade croutons.

For mains, we had the Filet de Chevreuil aka Venison Loin served with red wine poached pear and a celleriac puree.

For dessert offerings, they had a Fondant au chocolat, a Tarte Tatin with apple sorbet, a cheese selection and the Crepe Souffle a l’orange.

The waiters, who were incredibly gracious and knowledgeable, took turns bringing us dishes and sharing stories in that I’m Irish and will share a story whenever I get a chance, kind of way. We’d give all three restaurants a thumbs up, although in order of our favorites, we’d probably have to go with Citron first, followed by La Maison and then Town Bar & Grill. (This selection combines our feelings about both the quality of the food and the service).

Photo notes: I shot the above photos using both my Canon 7D as well as my iPhone, hence the reason that the images are slightly different sizes and some have borders while others don’t. (I used Camera+ for my iPhone editing).
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