The Ever So English Captain's House Inn in Cape Cod

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The Captain’s House Inn is a charming and ever so “English” inn just on the outskirts of quaint Chatham Massachusetts in Cape Cod. It was originally owned by an English couple and everything that made it authentically English has remained to this day, including a program they do with English students every year who intern for a season or longer.

The property has received many a fabulous review and friends of mine I’ve known for years and own a home in neighboring Harwich also sing its praises.  This four-diamond sea captain’s estate sits on two acres in Chatham, so the main house is surrounded by beautiful and serene gardens, which have been well kept, so much so that it continues to attract English patrons to this day.

Having lived in the UK, I can vouch that the Englishness of the place is still in tact, right down to the umpteen tea kettles and cups you have an option of using in the morning at breakfast or late at night with one of their homemade scones you can help yourself to in their kitchen.

The Main House, the attached Carriage House, the Stables and the 200-year-old “bow roof cape” called the Captains Cottage, provide 16 sumptuously appointed guest quarters, all of which are loaded with character, are historical in feel and are unique – below is the working fireplace in our room.

While the lighting isn’t great in this shot, you can get an idea of the authenticity of the rooms. As they say, it’s all in the details and the carekeepers at the Captain’s House Inn have managed to get the details just right.

Below is a shot of a room they call Lady Hope, which is more spacious than the room we had during our day. It is located on the second floor of the Main House, and has a gas fireplace, TV/DVD combination, private bathroom, queen bed, refrigerator and personal bar.

The Tradewinds room.

Located in the Captain’s Cottage, the Captain Hiram Harding room provides a historic ambiance with a large wood burning fireplace, original pumpkin pine flooring, king bed and private bathroom.

While the rooms are ever so charming, the beds comfortable and the surroundings quiet (key when you’re after a relaxing getaway), the big plus for me about the place were the gardens and the staff. All of the girls who worked there in addition to the incredibly helpful innkeepers Jill and James Meyer gave out of this world service and made you feel like their only guest.

The reception hall, sitting room with its wood-burning fireplace, and the library are beautifully appointed with antiques, period wallpaper and reproduction furnishings reminiscent of Williamsburg.

Between the hours of 3 and 5 p.m. we serve a complimentary cream tea of scones and sweets for our guests. Tea is especially enjoyable upon arrival after a long drive or as a quiet interlude from an active day. Guests may also choose to upgrade to our high tea for an additional $9.00 per person.

Each evening, between the hours of 6:30 and 10:30 p.m. we offer a complimentary snack set up in the kitchen. Tea, coffee or hot chocolate are available, and treats that vary each evening. Trays are available so you can retire to your room, or hang out in the kitchen or the library and meet other guests. Complimentary Port and Sherry are available in the library. We thought that was classy touch — you rarely see this at inns anymore, however it was something that historically English guests expected. As such, you can still find that in many old inns in South Africa, where aspects of the old colonial life are fighting to thrive.

In the mornings, you can take in breakfast in the back porch area (see room through the open door which leads to the below sunny room), which has quaint blue tablecloths and historical English decor, or outside on the courtyard (a must if the weather is decent).

And of course their attention to detail and service is extended at breakfast time. Take a look and be prepared for your mouth to water. Every day, the specials change however you can always get smoked salmon with capers, red onion and lemon, cheese, toast, and cereal, yogurt, granola, croissants, bagels with cream cheese, as well as countless tea choices. Delicious! Their juice selection is also very fresh with your choice of cranberry, apple, tomato, grapefruit or orange.

When we were there, they had a special crepe dish topped with mint, nuts, dried fruit and yogurt, as well as fruit salad, cream cheese cake (coffee cake), something they refer to as Cheese Soldiers, which is served with poached eggs, an English banger and sprinkled with multi-colored salt and pepper confetti. They also had a delicious cranberry waffle option, served with Cape Cod cranberries and pure Maple Syrup.

Everything is freshly prepared and they try to use local ingredients in keeping with the seasons. Below is a platter that was brought to our room for late night snacking when we arrived so late — fresh berries and scones. Scones for those of you who haven’t been to England, are very very English….and I’ve never tasted better scones as I have in the UK.

In addition to the main house spirits, a full library of books you can read on-site or movies you can watch on the premises, and that fabulous afternoon cream tea (above), they also have a heated outdoor pool and fitness center which is included in all their rates. Like a more modern 4 or 5 star property, you’ll also find plush robes, slippers on request, and extremely soft sheets. Another nice service they offer is laundry, which is $15 a load – leave it with them and they take care of it, a nice option if you’re on the road for longer than a week.

We love this place! Beyond charming, there’s something very peaceful and visceral about our experience there and we would definitely return. While we don’t normally include extensive background on a place, because of the uniqueness of the inn and it’s English connection, we thought it was worth giving you the history so you have a little context. Besides, it’s fascinating and oh so very early Cape Cod.

Captain’s House Inn History:

Young packet clipper ship Captain Hiram Harding built this stately Greek revival style sea captain’s home in 1839 for his bride of one year, Lydia and their nine children. Many of the rooms are named after his daughters (Eliza Jane, Mariah, Hope and Hannah Rebekah) and some of the ships he and his son, Joseph, captained (Whirlwind, Wild Hunter and Northern Light). The Harding family was well known in Chatham and Cape Cod. There are several roads, buildings, and the largest beach in Chatham, named after him.

In 1915, Mariah, the youngest daughter, sold the home to Daniel Manson, a shipping magnate from Salem, MA. Manson used the Captain’s House as a summer residence and in 1928 moved the “bowroof” cape on to the estate. The Cape, now known as the Captain’s Cottage was Manson’s retreat, where he entertained many of his cronies with bourbon and poker.  The Manson family sold the estate that included a 20-acre farm and several cranberry bogs to the Palmer family in the early 1950s.

The Runyon family purchased the remainder of the estate comprising 2 acres in 1972 and opened a boarding house in the main building catering to families in the summer months.In 1983, the Eakins purchased the property and turned it into an inn with 8 bedrooms. During their 10-year tenure they converted the barn and stables into the 5-unit Carriage House and the Captain’s Cottage into 3 units. The tool shed became a dormitory for young girls from England and the continent who worked as wait staff, front office, and housekeeping.

Dave McMaster, a retired Navy Commander and ex-corporate CEO and Jan, his English wife, assumed “Keeper of the Inn” responsibilities in 1993. They added the luxurious “Stables” building in 1997 and equipped all of the rooms with fireplaces and TV/VCR combinations and seven of the rooms with whirlpools.  Jill and James Meyer bought the Captain’s House Inn in 2006 after a two-year stint at the Carriage House Inn, just next door.

Details:

Captain’s House Inn

369 Old Harbor Road

Chatham, MA 02633

(508) 945-0127

 

Note: we were hosted however all opinions expressed are entirely my own.

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