It is not often that one gets to have a front row seat to the start of a new restaurant business, outside of actually being involved in a restaurant business. When I moved to my present location in San Francisco, there was a cute Spanish tapas restaurant, Lalola, down at the corner. While I didn’t frequent it all that often, I walked by it to see it grow from a one-room restaurant to doubling its size and offering a more extensive menu beyond tapas. They had ham hocks hung up, dry aging and preserving. The aroma was distinctive the few times I walked in.
Then, all of a sudden last fall, the restaurant closed. Bam. Soon after, the windows were taped covered and busy bees were inside redecorating and making changes. I saw new furnishings being brought in. For almost six months, there was a hive of activity behind covered windows. And then in late May, the unveiling. The new restaurant, Mason • Pacific, displayed a Parisian feel with a sexy burgundy awning, which allows for sidewalk dining. The interior also grew up from the gosh-golly yellow-and-red motif of Lalola to a more sophisticated beaux-arts style look. It definitely had a more polished, adult look compared to its previous interior decor.
Opening night was June 1 and I made reservations to attend. Let me suggest something first. Don’t go to opening night of a restaurant other than for the ceremonies. Understandably, the staff was a bit harried and disorganized. Only a bit. Nerves and all. I sat waiting a bit for my glass of wine, which they graciously comped at the end of the meal. The salad that I had was quite enjoyable, but didn’t quite match either the wine or the entree. But that’s my fault, not theirs. The entree was a slight disappointment as it was overly salted.
Since then, I’ve been back another four or so times. Since then, the food has become much better, the staff is friendlier and more relaxed. Here are some good points to consider:
• The wines they have are very good, especially the house wine. Tasty, full-bodied with a powerful nose. I’ve not tried all their wines, of course, but the few I have have been all equally satisfying.
• They’re not a vegetarian/vegan restaurant, but they do serve vegan-friendly dishes, and can certainly accommodate. But understand that the vegan market is not what they’re aiming at. I’m not vegan, so I have no problem ordering practically everything on the menu. One outstanding item on the menu is the tagliatelle. Holy-moly, what a dish! I don’t know what they did with it, but it was something. I love pasta, but it’s usually very pedestrian for me. You know, spaghetti and meatballs, or even fettuccine with pesto. I like it, but I can’t ever considering writing home about it. But the tagliatelle: it’s home-writing worthy. They did something to the pasta, not just the sauce, that made it so exquisite that I’m willing to pad my word count for. It was the texture, the taste, the finish. I’m no cook, so I can’t explain the intricate details involved in making this a discussion-worthy pasta. All I can say is, if you come here, try it.
• One provocative thing this restaurant does is offer off-menu items. You have to ask for it. They offer this huge bone-in ribeye that makes you hunger for it with your eyes. There may be other off-menus, but if so, they’re not as evident as this huge item that gets transported about. I love restaurants that are willing to go the extra mile with something as fun and exciting as this. Off-menu items may well be the secret sauce to success.
Since I’ve been back a number of times, I’m guessing you know my feelings for this new restaurant. It’s a hoot to see a new business rise from the ashes of a former restaurant, and it’s great to be a part of it, even if it’s just being a patron. And finally, it’s great that the restaurant is a home-run: great staff, wonderful cuisine, elegant atmosphere and a warm, homey feeling for us regulars.
