La Carafe (Image: Bob Knorpp)
Finding that right mix of atmosphere, wine, cuisine and staff is a rarity. But La Carafe on 9th Avenue in Manhattan has made a serious play on all four — and comes up a winner.
The brain child of Al Rineh, proprietor of the popular L’Ybane bar and restaurant on 8th avenue, this low-key and pleasant new entry creates all the ambience and flavor of Rineh’s South of France roots. His third property (his first restaurant is a popular destination in Nice), La Carafe offers a casual dining experience that focuses on wine pairing and conversation.
First, you can’t help but be immediately captivated by the charm of the decor. Exposed brick and soft lighting make for a magical experience, while small oil lamps adorn every table throughout the restaurant. The front of the establishment is completely open as well, taking away the usual over-air-conditioned New York restaurant feel, and replacing it with a hint of an open-air cafe. Unfortunately, the location itself backfires on this premise a bit. 9th avenue is a very busy and loud street at all times of the day and night, so the street noise is a bit distracting. But kudos on the effort to create something less typical of the mid-town scene.
Image: Bob Knorpp
The food is not spectacular, but the menu does offer an interesting blend of tastes created more for complimenting the wine. This is not so much a restaurant you go to for a full meal, as much as one where you grab an appetizer over drinks or a light snack with friends. On the three occasions that I ordered food, I enjoyed perfectly sized and reasonably priced dishes that I found delicious and satisfying, including a shrimp beignet dish that was particularly good.
But the reason you go to a wine bar is for the wine, and here La Carafe excels. There is a solid blend of a tastes from around the world, obviously all chosen by an expert sommelier. Every wine that I was allowed to sample was a good entry, but two wine in particular were quite notable.
First, a merlot from Languedoc, France, Domaine Caton, was wonderful and subtle, blending floral hints with a fruity taste. But the
real winner for me was a Malbec from Los Andes, Argentina, called Agua de Piedra. This 2010 vintage is stunningly good with an uncommonly strong oakiness that brings out a deep, rich buttery taste to the typically full-bodied Malbec flavorings.
Image: Bob Knorpp
Finally, I can’t say enough good things about the staff. Unlike many New York restaurants where your waiters are moonlighting actors, the staff here is a multicultural tour de force of professionals, hailing from all over the world. And they know how to have fun, laughing and talking to the patrons, while attentively waiting on their every need.
I’ve been looking for a local hangout that provides a casual, upscale vibe. La Carafe fills that bill and more. This is a definite side trip between clubs or on the way home from the theater, so make time to enjoy what it has to offer.
La Carafe
Wine Bar & Restaurant
653 9th Avenue
New York
212-333-5300
Robert Knorpp is host of The BeanCast Marketing Podcast at thebeancast.com and is President of The Cool Beans Group, a marketing strategy consultancy based in New York City. He likes laughing even more than breathing. You can follow the madness on Twitter at twitter.com/BobKnorpp.
