I hadn’t been to Nice in years. In my more youthful years, I visited the French Riviera and Provence several times, and it was always on a budget except for one business trip where we were wining and dining clients. Back in the day, crêpes and cappuccino made up my daily intake and I could easily find a decent bottle of Bordeaux for around 5€. Although everything is much more expensive than it used to be, there’s one thing you can count on in France – you’ll always be able to find a reasonable glass or bottle of wine: it’s an integral part of the culture.
Food is such an important part of any trip to France, even if you’re not a foodie. It’s not uncommon to have a 2-3 hour lunch, sometimes longer if you’re part of a group. Markets continue to thrive in Provence and along the Riviera, another treasured part of the culture I have missed over the years.
Nice was our first stop after our Magdalene Pilgrimage ended. I have to admit, I was a bit worried about revisiting a place I once cherished: Would commercialism have taken over? Would it be overgrown with tourists? Crowded? Expensive? Truthfully, with only two days, we didn’t have enough time to really explore the city properly, but thanks to the Villa St. Hubert Hotel owner Sophie who knew the lay of the land so to speak, we were on our way to explore within twenty minutes of arriving and set off by foot.
Villa St. Hubert Hotel, a central location, close to the Borriglione on the Red Line in Nice
Your Travel Guide to Nice
Remember that most of my European travel over the years has been by train, bus, small van or by foot, so having a car at our disposal was a bit of a luxury. That said, it’s not always needed and as many Europeans know, sometimes it just gets in the way when you take parking and traffic into account. Sophie suggested the tramway, which was excellent advice.
Two things to note about the tramway — it’s easy to navigate but you need to buy a plastic card first before you can add money to it, which can be challenging if you don’t speak French. Once you have your card, however, traveling is a piece of cake since there are only three lines. But first we walked and walked and walked — up, up, up hills, then stairs and then winding roads to a spot where the views were breathtaking.
Hills & Views of Nice
By foot is challenging if you’re not used to regular exercise, but its oh so rewarding. Head to Castle Hill for panoramic views of the city and the coast and Mont Boron for a more higher vantage point over the city where you can also spot Villefranche-sur-Mer (check out the Belvédère de Villefranche-sur-Mer rooftop bar) or the Coastal Path). There are also spectacular views of the city from SEEN Restaurant & Bar, which is a great spot for lunch or dinner (see our restaurant review of this fabulous gem)
Above and below, reviews from SEEN
Matisse & Chagall
Unfortunately we had to choose between Chagall or Matisse (even though they’re close to each other) because we didn’t have enough time to do both and make our dinner reservation at Restaurant Lu Fran Calin for traditional Nissarde cuisine in the old town — pictures below.
The World of Matisse
The Matisse museum is housed in a fully renovated Genoese villa cushioned within an olive grove in the Cimiez Gardens. The Matisse Museum follows the artistic development of his time in Nice from 1917 to his death in 1954.
Above and below credit: Matisse Museum
Credit: Matisse Museum
Located on 164, avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, the collection, which is rich in nearly 600 works, traces Matisse’s artistic research from the 1890s to the cut-out gouache papers of the end of his life. The museum also preserves the artist’s personal objects as well, which is always an interesting way to get a glimpse into his ideas, personality and likes.
The World of Chagall
We opted to see Chagall at a museum dedicated to him that has been open since 1973. It was a tough decision because I love both painters; however, there’s something so mystical about Marc Chagall’s world that I wanted to see some of my favorites close up. Located on Av. Dr. Ménard in the Alpes-Maritimes, they have free days you can visit the museum although the rates are reasonable to attend (roughly $10 or so).
So much of his work is inspired by the Abrahamic religions and he paints in bold, strong colors. He’s so inspiring that I took a lot of photos – how could I not? Below, Abraham and the Three Angels is from 1960, showing the moment when they appear to Abraham, who welcomes and hosts them at his tent. If you know the story, you’ll recall that this is the pivotal moment when they announce that Abraham’s elderly wife, Sarah, will conceive and give birth to a son.
Another painting with slightly softer reds and pinks but here, you still get the sense of a visitation of sorts, magic and mystery.
Below, this stained glass piece was powerful with its vivid colors and nuances, a style that was so unlike other paintings on display at the museum.
Below, Adam and Eve expelled from Paradise‘ was created in 1961 in Surrealism style.
Below, Adam and Eve. It’s remarkable to me how often he was inspired by (and painted) Biblical icons, especially from the Old Testament, such as Adam, Eve, Jacob, Noah and Moses.
The Chagall Museum in Nice
The Chagall Museum in Nice
Surrealism wasn’t something I naturally gravitated to in college when I first started studying art, but his style is an exception. Jacob’s Dream (below) is an enigma for many. Says Chagall, “I have been captivated by the Bible. It has always seemed to me and it still seems to me that it is the greatest source of poetry of all time. Since then I have sought this gleam in life and in art…”
Moses Receiving the Tablets of the Law (1960-1966) has a baroque style feel to it. These tablets are held out to him by God coming out of the clouds. The mountain is apparently representing where Moses stood on and other Biblical characters are shown: Aaron the High Priest, David and Jeremy and a group of fleeing Jews.
The Chagall Museum in Nice
With Chagall, I could go on and on, but I highly recommend you visit both museums when you’re in Nice . . . imperative if you’re an art lover or not. Their work will move you in ways you least expect.
Exploring by Tramway
Before I move into some of the sites and activities, let’s briefly talk about the tramway. It’s easy to jump on and off, without the hassle of parking, especially useful when you head to the promenade along the ocean and the old town. We stayed close to the Borriglione (Line 1: Red), making the old town only five stops away. It is also possible to walk it as well (roughly a half an hour). We did both.
There are shops and cafes along the way as well as fascinating architecture. You’ll find Saint Jean d’Angely (University), Saint Roch, Virgile Barel, SAint-Charles and Pont Michel on this line, the latter of which serves as a significant transport interchange. Its strategic location makes it a convenient point for travelers aiming to explore the French Riviera and beyond. It is the red line where you’ll find the Old Town (Opera – Vielle Ville).
There is also a blue line (2) and green line (3), the latter of which is where you’ll find the airport terminal for those who wish to come into the city by train from the airport. Other transportation options include electric scooter (YEGO has over 200 electric scooters for hire in Nice), by bike (LIME & PONY) which covers 12 municipalities, and by bus (ESPACE MOBILITES and AGENCE DE MOBILITE ZOU). Check out this link for more information on how to navigate your way around the city.
Dining & Cafes
There are so many foodie gems in Nice that it’s hard to know where to begin. I couldn’t find a crepe as easily as I could on my last visit, but then again, I had spent a couple of weeks in Nice during that stay, so I had my local haunts nailed down by day two. On this trip, we wanted to explore more flavors and in Nice, it’s not hard to do. Let’s start with the rooftop experience at SEEN, which had breathtaking views and fresh sushi worth writing home about. (read our standalone write-up) but the below pictures will whet your appetite.
SEEN Rooftop Restaurant in Nice
Cocktails are also great here as is the wine selection. This spot is not your “go-to” for local authentic cuisine: it is the choice for ambiance, great sushi, fresh modern dishes, an elegant decor and spectacular views.
Cocktails at the SEEN Rooftop Restaurant in Nice
Restaurant Lu Fran Calin
Old Town has tons of great options for both fine and casual dining. We experienced Restaurant Lu Fran Calin for traditional Nissarde cuisine, a corner eatery surrounded by a small courtyard that has both inside and outside seating options. Think stews and duck dishes with a ton of flavor. Anthony opted for the Beef Stew for his main course but was tempted by their homemade Gnocchi, which they serve with buttons and ceps mushrooms.
Examples of appetizers include cold cut platters (onion pie, stuffed veggies, with meat, chickpea fries, olive paste, polenta, red peppers and mushrooms), marinated mushrooms with peppers, stuffed vegetables with rice or a mixed hot goat salad with fig jam and ham. There’s also the scrumptious artichoke stew stuffed with Perugine sausage (below). Wait for it — it’s made with artichokes, pork belly, garlic, onions, thyme, olive oil and white line. Delish, right?
Above and below, Stuffed Artichoke and Beef Stew at Restaurant Lu Fran Calin
They offer various Italian dishes as well, such as a Ravioli Ricotta in a Pugliese Sauce (Chard, Ricotta, Sage butter, Cherry Tomatoes and Parmesan), a Beef Ravioli in a Beef Stew Sauce and Penne Pasta with Burrata, Bacon, Olives and Tomato Sauce. Can you say yes please?
Other wonderful options include their Duck Breast with Honey and Green Lime Sauce or their Chicken stuffed with Cepes and Grain Mustard Sauce. Might I add that coffee is an amazing way to end any evening in France. Located at 5 rue Francis Gallo in Nice, it’s a wonderful place to people watch. The food, ambiance and service were awesome and we were happy with their wine choices by the glass and by the bottle.
Nearby are other authentic restaurants for Nicoise and traditional fare, as well as ethnic choices as well — Vietnamese, Italian, Burmese, Indian, Moroccan are prime examples. There are also plenty of places to get a cafe and gelato can be found on nearly every corner. Here are the certified restaurants labeled “Cuisine Nissarde.”
Gelato can be found throughout Nice
You can find plenty of spices, oils, fish, produce, cheese and other delicacies at the market. They also have a wide selection of artisan products and one of our favorite gift options in Provence: SOAP.
Beautiful market offerings in Nice
Did I mention the breads, pastries and croissants? OMG – yum!
You can also find macarons throughout the city, including Old Town. Angea on rue de la Poissonnerie and Macaron de Nice on avenue Auber are both great options. There are so many more flavors to be found in France than anywhere you can hope to buy them in the states.
History & Culture
Much of the historical monuments, cathedrals and buildings can be found in Old Town, although there are exceptions. Worth noting is the Baroque architecture of L’Opera de Nice, which is the work of architect Francois Aune. It apparently used to be an old theater. The squares, cathedrals and monuments are impressive even for the frequent European traveler.
Below, the incredible and majestic Notre-Dame of Nice awaits your visit.
From antiquity to modern, you have Notre-Dame not far from a cubic glass structure that now houses a sports club and spa. Wow, right?
I absolutely loved the fountains in Promenade du Paillon, so much so I didn’t want to leave. I could have played amongst them for hours. My colleagues were eager to get to the market and thereafter, Old Town, but I could have stayed for longer.
What’s not to love?
There are other natural areas to sit, including the Jardin Albert, a large area for strolling with a music kiosk and the Theatre de Verdure from the 19th century. There’s also La Colline du Château which is a botanical park and garden with views of the city, and boasts an artificial waterfall. Another wonderment is Le Parc Forestier du Mont-Boron, which has 11 kilometers of trails in the heart of 57 hectares. I wish we had more time to explore some of these in depth. Le Parc Carol de Roumanie offers wooden play structures, a fitness trail, and water game options.
The Port is a great place to hang around (we bought gelato here). There is no shortage of squares with monuments, and statues from yesteryear.
Nice boasts tons of museums, such as the Archeology Museum on Avenue des arenes de Cimiez and the Pre-History Museum on Boulevard Carnot. In the latter, you’ll find an elephant-hunting camp dating back 400,000 years, when the first traces of fire domestication in the world was unearthed. Art lovers should also note the Museum of Fine Arts in addition to the Matisse and Chagall museums.
There’s the National History Museum on Bis bd Risso (closed on Mondays) as well as the Lascaris Palace (closed on Tuesdays), and the Massena Museum on Rue de France at 35 Promendade des Anglais. Massena is listed as a historical monument and here, you’ll learn about the history of Nice from the 19th century. Catarina from the tourism board strongly urged us to take in the Charles Negre Museum of Photography but we ran out of time (I so so so wanted to do this). It offers temporary monographic exhibitions of the greatest names of photography.
As you walk from the city center, but before you get to the official Old Town, the market boasts artisans in addition to foodie offerings. There are also those selling gorgeous flower arrangements.
Below, artisans sell their latest and greatest to tourists and locals alike.
Along the way, especially as you go through the city center, you’ll also find more traditional shops for clothing, lotions, perfumes and quirky gifts with fun colors and beyond.
Old Town
Old Town in most cities is a favorite place to visit for obvious reasons. Old town areas are charming, the architecture is amazing and there are usually wonderful restaurants and cafes. Nice is no exception to that rule of thumb. I couldn’t get enough of the winding alleys — on every turn, there was more color, more smells, more designs, more surprises and more visual candy to behold.
There are countless places to hang your hat for a beer, glass of wine, champagne, coffee or a bite.
If a Bohemian vibe is your jam, then there’s plenty for you to explore in Old Town.
Want wine to go? You won’t be disappointed in the choices. Grab a bottle of Medoc, Syrah or Bordeaux and head to the beach.
There are some outstanding cathedrals in Old Town and on the edge of it as well. Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur (Divo Jacobo) is a famous Jesuit Baroque-style church, which is sometimes referred to by its Latin name: Divo Jacobo Majori Apostolo. The church was constructed in the early 17th century and features ornate decorations, including mosaics, stucco work, and statues.
Inside, there’s no shortage of things that will bring awe into your awareness.
We love cathedrals, churches and ancient religious structures, largely for the architecture and stained glass, not for the Patriarch who built them. We didn’t get to see the Franciscan Museum Church and Monastery of Cimiez which offers an evocation of the life of the Franciscans in Nice from the 13th to the 18th century. The latter is a very interesting stop for history lovers. Equally fascinating is the Grotte du Lazaret (closed on Mondays), along Bis bd Franck Pilatte. At the foot of Mont Baron, you’ll find a cave that is 35 meters long and 4 to 14 meters wide.
The Promenade in Old Town
As you make your way through the Old Town, eventually you get to the promenade along the ocean. Although I am many years older than my last visit and things have indeed changed, I recognized it immediately. Memories flooded my vision the moment I stepped through the arches. Youth buzzing by on bikes, romantic couples hand-in-hand, people eating ice cream cones, and someone reading a book (yes, she was really off her phone and reading something on paper). A handful were actually wading through the water.
You have 15 private beaches and 20 public beaches to choose from over seven kilometers. Those interested in water sports and activities can check out La Base by Riviera Nautic Sport, Azur Kayak Mer, Le Poseidon Diving School and the Sea and Mountain Discovery Center.
WATCH OUR SHORT NICE VIDEO HERE.
No doubt, I’ve missed some things, but we’ll be back with plenty more stories to share. Next time, I’ll be sure to make time for the photography museum, a swim in the ocean, a sweet (and a savory crêpe) and Matisse.
Have you been to Nice? What did you love the most and why?
Be sure to check out our France section for more great articles, links and photos.
Renee standing on the small patio at Villa St. Hubert Hotel in Nice
Renee Blodgett is the founder of We Blog the World. The site combines the magic of an online culture and travel magazine with a global blog network and has contributors from every continent in the world. Having lived in 10 countries and explored over 90, she is an avid traveler, and a lover, observer and participant in cultural diversity. She is also the founder of the Magdalene Collection, a jewelry line dedicated to women’s unsung voices and stories, and the award-winning author of the bestselling book Magdalene’s Journey
She is founder of Blue Soul Media and co-founder of Blue Soul Earth as well as the producer and host of the award-winning Blue Soul CHATS podcast, that bridges science, technology and spirituality. Renee also founded Magic Sauce Media, a new media services consultancy focused on viral marketing, social media, branding, events and PR. For over 20 years, she has helped companies from 12 countries get traction in the market. Known for her global and organic approach to product and corporate launches, Renee practices what she pitches and as an active user of social media, she helps clients navigate digital waters from around the world. Renee has been blogging for over 16 years and regularly writes on her personal blog Down the Avenue, Huffington Post, BlogHer, We Blog the World and other sites. She was ranked #12 Social Media Influencer by Forbes Magazine and is listed as a new media influencer and game changer on various sites and books on the new media revolution. In 2013, she was listed as the 6th most influential woman in social media by Forbes Magazine on a Top 20 List.
Her passion for art, storytelling and photography led to the launch of Magic Sauce Photography, which is a visual extension of her writing, the result of which has led to producing six photo books: Galapagos Islands, London, South Africa, Rome, Urbanization and Ecuador.
Renee is also the co-founder of Traveling Geeks, an initiative that brings entrepreneurs, thought leaders, bloggers, creators, curators and influencers to other countries to share and learn from peers, governments, corporations, and the general public in order to educate, share, evaluate, and promote innovative technologies.
