Venetian’s Pinot Brasserie For a Little Oak, Duck, Foie Gras & Oysters

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I was in the mood for an outside cafe (or at least the illusion of outside, i.e., the Las Vegas Venetian with its fake blue skies and clouds), a really delicious salad and an oaky chardonnay. Every restaurant or cafe seemed to have $40+ entrees, overpriced mediocre wines by the glass and $12 bottles of water. But, we were already at the Venetian and for anyone who has tried to valet or garage park at any of the hotels on the strip, you know just getting in and out can be a 30 minute ordeal.

We passed a French bistro that we dove into and sat at the bar, thinking we’d just have an appetizer and leave. Pinot Brasserie inside the Venetian looked familiar and I realized as soon as I looked at the menu, that I had eaten there twice before, once with a girlfriend and once on my own during some long conference week.

Our bartender (and also our waiter btw) was Irish, not French. And, most of the wines were from California, not France, but to be honest I was thrilled about the latter discovery given that I was in the mood for oak and butter in my chard and the French don’t really deliver that style.

Catering to yanks, the menu had reasonably priced oysters (even by non-Vegas standards, chef Eric Lhuillier was classically trained in France and worked in a number of highly-acclaimed kitchens in France before falling in love with surfing and the California lifestyle.  I got lucky – oysters and a choice of a couple of buttery chardonnays although I opted for the fairly safe Jordan (2008). My friend commented about how ‘gritty’ the oysters were, thinking it might be a turn off until I reminded him that I was from the Northeast originally and accustomed to oysters from Maine, which is about as gritty as they get. Below the seared scallops with green lentils, red pepper and beurre noizette ($33).

Poultry and the fish were both incredibly tender with or without the sauce.

From snapper to cod, his cooking is divine.
The chocolate soufflé is always on the menu – sprinkled with white powdered sugar, it is a great ending to the meal with a fresh pot of coffee. BTW, if you don’t finish your wine before the meal is over, he’ll put it in a to-go ‘wine’ glass for you. Remember this is Vegas and you can walk the town glass in hand.
Other fabulous things on the menu include a Potato Leek Tian, a Caesar Salad (the salad was okay btw, nothing special) and mussels simmered in garlic beurre blanc and yellow frisee served with a truffle vinaigrette. They also serve a traditional foie gras with squab breast, wrapped in cabbage leaves, beurre noise and date compote. I’d also recommend the duck breast and foie gras duck rillette served with maple aigre-doux sauce. Bring it on!
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