Japan Culture: Kyoto & the History of Hiroshima

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We decided to head from Tokyo to Kyoto in style on the bullet train. We had booked our JR Pass before we left the states, but we decided to upgrade to first class. One word of advice here — even when you book first class tickets ahead of time, you still need to go into a Rail Pass station and book in tickets for your exact seat and train time. I’m not sure what would happen if you showed up to a train where you hadn’t booked ahead of time, but we avoided that pitfall by booking our trip to Kyoto from Tokyo, to Hiroshima from Kyoto and then back from Kyoto to Tokyo all in advance.

The ride was glorious, with a boat load of beautiful countryside to take in, and small towns along the way to peruse.

The 452 kilometer ride (aka 5 and a half hour ride by car) from Tokyo to Kyoto only took about 140 minutes on the bullet train, and was far more comfy than a vehicle. In Kyoto the train arrives into Kyoto Station, which is such an amazing place I’d recommend checking it out even if you’re not catching a train. There are tons of restaurants (good restaurants!), bakeries and shops — there’s a lot to do there.

We checked into New Miyako Hotel,  which is very close to the station and super convenient for exhausted, weary travelers who just want to drop their bags off in their room and take a quick rest before heading back out.  We first headed to the Gion District, which is Kyoto’s famous geisha district and is filled with shops and restaurants (and while we were unfortunately a tad early, I can tell you this area would be gorgeous with cherry blossoms probably right about now, too!). The Yasaka Shrine is also right next door to the Gion District, so you can easily knock both things off your list in one trip.

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Entrance to the Yasaka Shrine. We thought the shrine closed to visitors at 5, and most of the stalls and things were closed, but you can still walk into the actual shrine area past 5, so seeing it at night (and then again later during the day) was special.

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Since we were starving, we headed for sushi at a little place we happened upon in the Gion district. You can also get vegetarian noodles if you don’t eat meat or seafood.

Next up was Hiroshima and neighboring island Miyajima. I have to admit that I was hesitate to partake in the Hiroshima part of the trip. I knew it would be an emotional thing to see, and we only had a limited number of days in Kyoto and I just wasn’t sure how I felt about all of it, but after going, I’m so glad I did. Yes, the Hiroshima sites and museum are incredibly heartbreaking, but the area is so beautiful and there’s just so much history there, to go, you really feel like you’re a part of something, for better or for worse.

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We caught the ferry from Hiroshima over to Miyajima Island first.

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Chris & his father about to chow down on some fried oyster donuts.

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The wild deer are indigenous to this island, and while they’re cute and friendly, they will try to eat any paper you have hanging around, if you let them!

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In the distance, you’ll spot the Itsukushima Shrine on the island, which is an incredible site to see.

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We also took the Miyajima cable car up into the mountains for the most incredible view of the area, including Hiroshima in the background. There’s also a beautiful walk that you can take back from the cable car area down into the village, which I would recommend. It’s a steep climb up, so we took the bus to the entrance of the cable car, but to walk down isn’t so bad, so that’s how I’d recommend doing it.

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Back down on the island …

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After Miyajima Island, it was on to Hiroshima, where our first stop was this structure, now known as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial. As one of the only standing reminders of the atomic bomb, you can obviously guess why it would have been a controversial decision to keep it standing all these years later, but after much back and forth, the building was finally designated by the United Nations as a World Heritage Site and today is protected.

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The city as it stands today. Incredible. While it’s obviously been a while since the attack, it’s still pretty amazing to see how the city has built itself up around the ashes.

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