In Catalan, they say “Qui encén foc per Sant Joan, no es crema en tot l’any” —He who has a fire for Sant Joan isn’t burnt in all the year”
Which is lovely and poetic, but one has to wonder at its veracity, what with all the bonfires and firecrackers combined with revelry (alcohol) throughout a crowded city like Barcelona plenty of people end up burnt, literally and figuratively speaking.
All the Pretty Bonfires
The real shame here is that the bonfires aren’t put to better use roasting hot dogs and marshmallows (smores, anyone?), because while we can appreciate the favorable bonfire lighting that takes ten years off any face…or maybe that’s all the orujo talking…fires are for creating lovely moments between the paladar and messy bites of chocolate and marshmallow on sugary graham crackers.
Not familiar with the American sinfulness that are Smores?
Getting Lit: La Flama del Canigó
La Flama del Canigó is never put out. All year long it flickers and sparks in the Museu de la Casa Pairal de Perpinyà until on June 22nd, it’s moved to the peak of Canigó where at midnight, the fire is distributed to willing fire-starters and begins its journey to the Sant Joan bonfires throughout Catalunya via car, bike, boat and horse.
Of course it seems to us coddling the sacred flame in public transport could be far more entertaining. Just think of the stares from the public at large, and the glares from security… Perhaps an official flame-resistant t-shirt would be in order.
No fire for you? Maybe you’re up for Moonlit herb-gathering…
Not much of a pyromaniac? Head to the countryside in search of traditional medicinal herbs, said to be more powerful when gathered on the eve of Sant Joan. The money-hungry can search out verbena, perpetual losers at card can pick up lucky pine leaves, and the list goes on. Of course be advised to take a field guide of native herbs, a flashlight, and whenever possible a knowledgeable wise woman with appropriately gnarled hands and an enchanted cottage in the forest for the best possible results…
Traditional Sweets (not smores) for the occasion.
Whatever you do for Sant Joan, be sure to savor a sweet mouthful of Coca de Sant Joan, –with candied fruit, pine-nuts, filled with whipped cream—and wash it all down with a ice-cold glass of cava or a frothy café amb llet.
P.S. —Barcelona for idiots doesn’t in any way endorse playing with fire and indulging in excess alcohol.
Yes, the natives do it, but they’ve had years of practice. So be aware and wary, because you’ve been forewarned–Sant Joan is a fun night, but is made decidedly the opposite when you have to rush to urgent care with a third-degree burn, or have your wallet snatched while drunkenly contemplating the magical pictures you see in the flames….
Chris Ciolli is a Barcelona-based writer, translator and artist with Midwestern roots. She shares her escapades as a Missourian in the world at Midwesternerabroad.com, and writes about Barcelona from a guiri-gone-native perspective at Barcelonaforidiots.com. A closet foodie and self-proclaimed art addict, Chris typically blogs about the drinks, eats and other cultural attractions she encounters on her travels. In her spare moments, she reads obsessively, slurps excessive quantities of coffee and tea, and plays with art supplies and kitchen tools. Oh, and travels as much as humanly possible.
