Perched above cliffs that recede dramatically into the North Atlantic, the seaside city of Essaouira, Morocco is set amid scenery that seems more befitting of Brittany or even Western Ireland. Its bone-white buildings accented in deep blue are about as far as you can get from the warm reds and pinks that define medinas in Moroccan cities like Marrakech and Rabat.
These reasons alone make a trip all the way to the western edges of the African continent all the more rewarding. Once you can learn to pronounce and remember the city’s strange name, book a bus ticket to Essaouira, the sparkling gem of Morocco’s Atlantic coast.
Essaouira’s past as a military and trading port is extremely evident
History of Essaouira
Known as “Tassort” in the local Berber language and “Mogador” in Portuguese, Essaouira (pronounced ess-oo-wee-rah) was first explored by the Carthaginian navigator Hanno around 400 B.C. More recently, in 1506, Manuel I of Portugal established several forts there. The Portuguese retreated less than half a century later; The French had come and gone by 1700.
The city you see now when you set foot in Essaouira began in the mid 18th century, when Mohammed III of Morocco began using it as a port for trading with European powers. Although initially fruitful, this decision would backfire in 1844 at the onset of the first Franco-Moroccan war, which would once again relegate Essaouira to French control, between 1912 and 1956.
It was during this “French protectorate” period that Essaouira began to gain popularity as a tourist destination for Europeans. As is the case throughout much of the rest of Morocco, French cultural influence in Essaouira is still strong.
Essaouira at night
Bus from Marrakech to Essaouira
The best way to travel to Essaouira from Marrakech is by bus. As I detailed in my post on getting around in Morocco, two bus options between Essaouira and Marrakech exist: The government-run “CTM” bus; Or a public, local bus.
In Morocco, “government-run” is synonymous with “high-quality” and “legitimate,” so you should book a CTM bus if you can. As of January 2012, these depart Marrakech at 8 a.m. and 12 noon. Regardless of which bus you take, the cost is 80 D.H. (about $12) one-way and the journey takes between three and fours hours.
One word of advice: Do not eat any of the meat they sell along the road there. You will regret it!
Inside the Riad el Pacha
Hotels and Hostels in Essaouira
Although Essaouira isn’t a tourist hub along the lines of Marrakech or Fez, it is a popular spot for foreign tourists and Moroccan locals alike. As a result lodging options are plentiful, where you prefer luxury hotels, basic hostels or anywhere in-between.
Since my budget policy is always “as cheap as possible,” I’m going to recommend hostels. Personally, I stayed at Riad el Pacha, a charming riad-style hostel located just off the main shopping street. The riad had the classic open Moroccan construction and a lovely rooftop terrace that provide an amazing view of the entire city.
You can also stay at the Hostel Essaouira, which is the most popular hostel on HostelWorld. The only reason I didn’t stay there is that they were full when arrived. And as you might remember, I’m not a fan of booking in advance.
Visit with seagulls almost anywhere in Essaouira
Things to Do in Essaouira
As is the case throughout much of the rest of Morocco, Essouira is filled with a plethora of dining and shopping options. You can also hop another bus a few hours south to Agadir, Morocco’s surfing capital.
Above all, however, Essaouira is a place to relax. Whether you stroll the old stone street of the medina, along any portion of the city’s Atlantic coastline or even head south to its camel-laden beaches, you’re sure to leave Essaouira feeling much more refreshed than you did when you arrived.
Robert Schrader is a travel writer and photographer who’s been roaming the world independently since 2005, writing for publications such as “CNNGo” and “Shanghaiist” along the way. His blog, Leave Your Daily Hell, provides a mix of travel advice, destination guides and personal essays covering the more esoteric aspects of life as a traveler.
